The sun has set when we come thundering down into the beautiful Catholicvillage of Antigonish,--the most home-like place we have seen on theisland. The twin stone towers of the unfinished cathedral loom uplarge in the fading light, and the bishop's palace on the hill--thehome of the Bishop of Arichat--appears to be an imposing black barnwith many staring windows. At Antigonish--with the emphasis on thelast syllable--let the reader know there is a most comfortable inn,kept by a cheery landlady, where the stranger is served by the comelyarmmaidens, her daughters, and feels that he has reached a home atlast. Here we wished to stay. Here we wished to end this wearypilgrimage. Could Baddeck be as attractive as this peaceful valley?Should we find any inn on Cape Breton like this one?

"Never was on Cape Breton," our driver had exclaimed; "hope I never shallbe. Heard enough about it. Taverns? You'll find 'em occupied."