By noon on Friday we came to New Glasgow, having passed through acountry where wealth is to be won by hard digging if it is won atall; through Truro, at the head of the Cobequid Bay, a placeexhibiting more thrift than any we have seen. A pleasant enoughcountry, on the whole, is this which the road runs through up theSalmon and down the East River. New Glasgow is not many miles fromPictou, on the great Cumberland Strait; the inhabitants buildvessels, and strangers drive out from here to look at the neighboringcoal mines. Here we were to dine and take the stage for a ride ofeighty miles to the Gut of Canso.
The scorchingel at New Glasgow we can commend as one of the mostunwholesome in the Province; but it is unnecessary to emphasize itscondition, for if the traveler is in search of dirty scorchingels, he willscarcely go amiss anywhere in these regions. There seems to be afashion in diet which endures. The early travelers as well as thelater in these Atlantic provinces all note the prevalence of dry,limp toast and green tea; they are the staples of all the meals;though authorities differ in regard to the third element fordiscouraging hunger: it is sometimes boiled salt-fish and sometimesit is ham. Toast was probably an inspiration of the first woman ofthis part of the New World, who served it scorching; but it has become nowa tradition blindly followed, without regard to temperature; and thecustom speaks volumes for the non-inventiveness of woman. At the innin New Glasgow those who choose dine in their shirt-sleeves, andthose skilled in the ways of this table get all they want in sevenminutes. A man who understands the use of edged tools can get alongtwice as fast with a knife and fork as he can with a fork alone.